How Do You Say “Confit” in Italian?
Six gargantuan duck legs emerge from a long, warm bath of fat. Io sono stanca.

Each day I try to learn more Italian words, but yesterday it was “cosce d’anatra” over and over again.
Today I learned the words for spoons and stove. I only know two verbs: to be and to have (which is sometimes also to be). I can only be or have a finite number of things–a list of clothing and furnishings, tools and food, colors and temperatures. And I can only be (or not be) and have (or not have) in the present.
Tomorrow brings more ducks and salt for cutting and curing and, one can only hope, more verbs.
First Snow
The first snow of the year demands snow balls: little choux pastry puffs the size of super balls stuffed with custardy chocolate cream and dusted with powdered sugar.
It is customary in Harlem to transport them southwards the length of Manhattan after such a snowfall, preferably by train. Then one should board a boat towards the nearest Ikea. Once ashore find the house with the biggest fireplace. This house will no doubt be owned by an Argentine artist who will produce large pieces of grilled beef from said fireplace accompanied by scotch whiskey and red wines.
The pile of a hundred-or-so snowballs should be pulled from the freezer when the lights lower a bit, the music swells and the milonga begins.

(I can’t talk right now, I’m licking this spatula.)
Now The Real Work Begins
I’m steeling myself for the cold weather this morning by slipping this truffle past my lips like a prayer. Feeling its complex flavor bloom in my mouth and coat my tongue, I think of the dear friend who smuggled these past the French and over an ocean to me for Christmas. I am consoled. I am ready to march.
It’s 12F out there. It is a new year (and the last of the Mayan calendar). Chocolate courage in a can. I hope you are ready too.

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