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A Different Kind of Pie as a DIfferent Kind of Pie

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Dear Jan and Stefan,
Here is the recipe I promised.
I’ll send a drawing of the wood-fired moon oven next week.


Makes two cornatti

THREE days ahead: Make yourself some really good pizza dough

TWO days ahead: Invite some friends

ONE day ahead: Make yourself a really delicious lamb stew

ZERO day: Make yourself some really yummy mashed potatoes


I’m sure Stefan has a really good dough recipe. The secret for me is the slow rise. I make my dough a few days ahead, give it one rise, then stash it in the fridge until I need it. Pull it out about an hour before you want to make the pizza so it comes to room temperature.


You have plenty of friends; you shouldn’t need directions for this step.


This is what I remember putting in the Lamb Stew:

1/2 kilo ground lamb
1 medium onion, diced
2 carrots, diced
1 handful of wild mushrooms (I used black trumpets harvested from Joan’s place)
1 handful of grape tomatoes
2 garlic cloves, chopped
Zest from half a orange, peeled with a vegetable peeler (not grated)
1 fresh bay leaf, from my window
Some fennel seed
Some sprigs of fresh thyme, also from my window
1/2 bottle of white wine
1/2 glass of sweet vermouth
Splash or two of vinegar to adjust the sweetness
enough flour slurry to thicken the gravy
Salt and pepper to taste


(This should be enough filling for two pies.)


Here’s how I make my mashed potatoes:

Use two large Russet potatoes. Peel and cut them into large, even chunks. Cover them with water, add a bay leaf and a little salt and bring to a boil until tender. Press the potatoes through a ricer into a bowl. Add enough heated cream to the potatoes to get a fluffy consistency that can be piped (remember that it will stiffen a bit as it cools). Salt and pepper to taste. Let it cool a bit before spooning into a piping bag.

To assemble the cornatto:

Heat the hell out of your oven. Heat up your stew also. Bring the pizza dough to room temperature.

Press and pull the dough into a circle. Transfer to pizza peel. (I learned this the hard way. It’s really best to assemble the cornatto on a peel well-dusted with semolina, NOT the counter. It’s really hard to get it on a peel after it’s put together.)

Sprinkle the circle with grated Parmesan or other hard cheese (Pecorino Romano would be appropriate). Then put the lamb stew down the middle and pinch one end together to make a cornucopia-shaped pizza. Spoon a bit more lamb on the open flat of the pie.

Now pipe dollops of mashed potato all over the open area and transfer to the super hot oven. Turn once or twice during the baking. The tricky part is browning the potatoes without burning the crust.

Repeat to make the second cornatto. I can only make one pie at a time in my oven.

HERE are some pictures:


Written by etinnyo

May 22, 2013 at 1:24 pm

Posted in Art, Food, Meat, recipe, Sweden

The Riblets

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“What else should I try?” I asked my friend behind the counter. He looked at me like I had asked him in Klingon. Then I smiled and he realized it was a friendly question.

“Try this lady. Very best.” By then my companion had already completed his transaction and was poking at the tub of pickled cabbage heads sitting on the floor. He spun around to see my new friend holding aloft a narrow strip of smoked riblets, as long as my torso.

“Yes!” I said.

I added half of these to a white bean and potato soup which served me handily for four lunches.


White Bean and Potato Soup

Rinse 1 can of cannellini beans and put them in a pot. Cover them with a couple cans of water and some white wine. Bring to boil. Then add two diced potatoes. Cut apart six smoked riblets and add them too. Add more water if needed. Let this simmer until the beans and potatoes are very soft. Add two healthy forkfuls of sauerkraut and some leftover dessert wine. Simmer a little longer until the meat is soft and pulls away easily from the bone. Add more water to keep it soupy. It’s nice accompanied by rosemary croutons or pumpernickel toasts.

Written by etinnyo

January 21, 2013 at 8:51 am

Spicy Suelze

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Their spicy head cheese included mostly tongue meat and a stiff but not rubbery aspic (for lack of a better word for whatever you call that delicious binding jelly). It was surprisingly picante. I cut into 1″ cubes and served with cubes of beet, cucumber, black bread and cranberry jelly. It was pretty good.

Written by etinnyo

January 20, 2013 at 8:50 am

Posted in Butchers, Food, Meat, Menu, New York

Not Just For Breakfast

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Ich liebe Leberwurst.


This has been my favorite breakfast and snack for the past few days. Last night, I spread the final bit of this suave liver paste  on a crisp bread as a midnight snack. I will not admit to scraping the wrapper.

Back to oatmeal this morning.

Written by etinnyo

January 14, 2013 at 8:39 am

Cocktail Weenies

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A lucky birthday girl might share these with her closest friends.


The boys at the store called them “peanut hotdogs” but no peanuts were harmed in the making of these dogs.

Written by etinnyo

January 13, 2013 at 11:00 am


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There’s something about the gesture of these Bratwursts that touches my heart.


Written by etinnyo

January 12, 2013 at 11:00 am

Knock Knock

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January 12, 2013 at 2:12 am


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Marjoram is the secret of these sweet, flowery Wiesswursts.


Written by etinnyo

January 12, 2013 at 2:12 am

No Pork Store Story

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I’m not sure  I can tell you the story of my visit to the pork store at the end of the line. I can not describe the frowny charm of the place — achieving that strange Slavic-masquerading-as-German balance of friendly and dour at the same time. I can not tell you why my companion (the one who found the store) decided to dress like a German country gentleman for the occasion. Or how the men behind the counter perked up only when I started asking about their headcheese. Or the frankfurter story. No, I can’t tell you that.

So instead, I will post a picture each day of the meats I purchased from them.


Written by etinnyo

January 11, 2013 at 9:23 am

Making the Wurst of It

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I take a late lunch at a little bar. Today, I had the Weisswurst and Nurnberger. I thank the universe for sausages and mustard. The crack of natural casings, boiled or sautéed. The juicy, simply seasoned meat within. Clean, wholesome and pure like a well-prayed prayer.

Written by etinnyo

January 7, 2013 at 6:15 pm

Posted in Butchers, Food, Meat, Menu, New York