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Walk Of Shame Waffles

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The original recipe I was trying to make came in my waffle maker’s recipe booklet. It was called “Good Night Waffles” because most of the ingredients of the batter are combined and left to ferment the night before. I developed this variation recipe because I found I had no regular all purpose flour when I was assembling the batter (and of course it was rather late and I was damned if I was going to change out of my pajamas to run to the corner store). So instead, I substituted what I had, brown rice flour and cake flour for all purpose flour. My poor planning and laziness really paid off the morning after.

Walk of Shame Waffles

Makes 8 waffles
1/3 cup lukewarm water
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
2 1/4 teaspoons active dry yeast
2 cups whole milk (lukewarm)
1/2 cup melted butter
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup brown rice flour
1 1/4 cup cake flour
2-3 large eggs. lightly beaten
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon baking soda

photo-2 -2The night before, combine the warm water, sugar and yeast. Proof for 10 minutes. Stir in warm milk, butter and salt. Beat in the flours until smooth. Cover the bowl (make sure it’s a large bowl) with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature overnight. Do not refrigerate.

When ready to bake, preheat your waffle iron (I use an electric Belgian waffle maker that flips). While it’s heating, mix in the eggs, vanilla and baking soda. The batter will be like thin pancake batter. Pour into the hot waffle, shut the lid and flip immediately. Cook until done. If your waffler doesn’t have an doneness indicator, watch for when it stops steaming. then check it. The waffles should be golden brown, lacy and crisp.

Notes:

The sour dough quality of the batter is similar to blinis so it is excellent with savory toppings (omit the vanilla extract).

Any leftover batter can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Just give it a good stir before you pour it in the waffle maker.

Written by etinnyo

April 13, 2014 at 8:38 pm

Posted in Food, New York, recipe

September’s Panzanella

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September’s Panzanella

(Like Cinderella rising 
From ashes of Autumn’s plot) 

Staled bread and last tomatoes
Just enough garlic
And pepperoncini for the heat
Olives and capers, the salt
Basil, because
Olive oil, be generous
Acid, if needed
Cukes, cubed not diced

(Yes, that last part,
It might be heresy)

 

 

Written by etinnyo

September 12, 2013 at 4:16 pm

Posted in Food, Menu, New York, recipe

Yes, That’s Ice Cream

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Yes, that’s sour cream ice cream with this weekend’s pies. The inspiration for this ice cream came from cherry topped cheesecake.

I made it like this:

Put 16 oz of nonfat sour cream, 1 1/2 cups of heavy cream and 3/4 cup of sugar in a blender jug and whizz it around a bit. Then pour it into your ice cream maker. If you are making it during a heatwave it might remain quite soft. Scoop it into a container and then into the freezer for at least 2 hours. Serve proudly with warm cherry pie.

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I used organic dairy products but you don’t have to.

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Written by etinnyo

July 8, 2013 at 1:08 am

Posted in Art, Food, Pie, recipe

A Different Kind of Pie as a DIfferent Kind of Pie

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Dear Jan and Stefan,
Here is the recipe I promised.
I’ll send a drawing of the wood-fired moon oven next week.
Love,
Elaine
 

SHEPHERD’S CORNATTO

Makes two cornatti

THREE days ahead: Make yourself some really good pizza dough

TWO days ahead: Invite some friends

ONE day ahead: Make yourself a really delicious lamb stew

ZERO day: Make yourself some really yummy mashed potatoes

THREE

I’m sure Stefan has a really good dough recipe. The secret for me is the slow rise. I make my dough a few days ahead, give it one rise, then stash it in the fridge until I need it. Pull it out about an hour before you want to make the pizza so it comes to room temperature.

TWO

You have plenty of friends; you shouldn’t need directions for this step.

ONE

This is what I remember putting in the Lamb Stew:

1/2 kilo ground lamb
1 medium onion, diced
2 carrots, diced
1 handful of wild mushrooms (I used black trumpets harvested from Joan’s place)
1 handful of grape tomatoes
2 garlic cloves, chopped
Zest from half a orange, peeled with a vegetable peeler (not grated)
1 fresh bay leaf, from my window
Some fennel seed
Some sprigs of fresh thyme, also from my window
1/2 bottle of white wine
1/2 glass of sweet vermouth
Splash or two of vinegar to adjust the sweetness
enough flour slurry to thicken the gravy
Salt and pepper to taste

 

(This should be enough filling for two pies.)

ZERO

Here’s how I make my mashed potatoes:

Use two large Russet potatoes. Peel and cut them into large, even chunks. Cover them with water, add a bay leaf and a little salt and bring to a boil until tender. Press the potatoes through a ricer into a bowl. Add enough heated cream to the potatoes to get a fluffy consistency that can be piped (remember that it will stiffen a bit as it cools). Salt and pepper to taste. Let it cool a bit before spooning into a piping bag.

To assemble the cornatto:

Heat the hell out of your oven. Heat up your stew also. Bring the pizza dough to room temperature.

Press and pull the dough into a circle. Transfer to pizza peel. (I learned this the hard way. It’s really best to assemble the cornatto on a peel well-dusted with semolina, NOT the counter. It’s really hard to get it on a peel after it’s put together.)

Sprinkle the circle with grated Parmesan or other hard cheese (Pecorino Romano would be appropriate). Then put the lamb stew down the middle and pinch one end together to make a cornucopia-shaped pizza. Spoon a bit more lamb on the open flat of the pie.

Now pipe dollops of mashed potato all over the open area and transfer to the super hot oven. Turn once or twice during the baking. The tricky part is browning the potatoes without burning the crust.

Repeat to make the second cornatto. I can only make one pie at a time in my oven.

HERE are some pictures:

          

Written by etinnyo

May 22, 2013 at 1:24 pm

Posted in Art, Food, Meat, recipe, Sweden

The Riblets

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“What else should I try?” I asked my friend behind the counter. He looked at me like I had asked him in Klingon. Then I smiled and he realized it was a friendly question.

“Try this lady. Very best.” By then my companion had already completed his transaction and was poking at the tub of pickled cabbage heads sitting on the floor. He spun around to see my new friend holding aloft a narrow strip of smoked riblets, as long as my torso.

“Yes!” I said.

I added half of these to a white bean and potato soup which served me handily for four lunches.

***

White Bean and Potato Soup

Rinse 1 can of cannellini beans and put them in a pot. Cover them with a couple cans of water and some white wine. Bring to boil. Then add two diced potatoes. Cut apart six smoked riblets and add them too. Add more water if needed. Let this simmer until the beans and potatoes are very soft. Add two healthy forkfuls of sauerkraut and some leftover dessert wine. Simmer a little longer until the meat is soft and pulls away easily from the bone. Add more water to keep it soupy. It’s nice accompanied by rosemary croutons or pumpernickel toasts.

Written by etinnyo

January 21, 2013 at 8:51 am

New Year’s Tea

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This New Year’s Tea at Upton Alley was not attended by the guest of honor. He left Upton unceremoniously New Year’s morning in a motorcar, discarding his flamenco costume as though shedding last year’s skin. Those left behind kept up their spirits by watching Downton Abbey and seeking solace in tea.

As the foggy mantilla of the previous evening lifted, I found myself alone packing away the castanets and preparing to receive guests. …And in the presence of two perplexing, red-jacketed creatures. Naturally, I sought the good counsel of Miss Toklas.

Here is the recipe she suggests on page 60:

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Perpignan Lobsters

Cook 4 small lobsters not weighing more than 1 lb. each in boiling water, salted, for 18 to 20 minutes. During this time melt in a saucepan 4 tablespoons butter and heat in it 1 large carrot cut in thin rings and 2 medium-sized onions with a clove stuck on one of them and the white of 1 leek. When they are coated in butter sprinkle 1 tablespoon flour over them, mix well. Add alittle by little 1 cup of hot dry white wine and 1 cup hot bouillion, 1 large bouquet of parsley, fennel and basil, salt, pepper, a pinch of cayenne, a pinch of saffron, 4 cloves of crushed garlic and 4 tablespoons of tomato purée. Cover and cook slowly for 1 hour. Cut the lobsters longitudinally, take out the meat and place the 8 pieces in a hot casserole, take out the meat from the claws and place in the interstices of the lobster meat in the casserole. Take out of the sauce the parsley, fennel and basil if you wish. They did not in Perpignan. Pour the sauce over the lobster meat into the casserole. Serve piping hot.*

* Note. Bouillon is a “boiling”, a stock made of veal, chicken or beef bones simmered in water with the special vegetable and herbs appropriate to the dish.

Of course these are Modern times, so I changed a few things. For one, I had only 2 lobsters. I partially steamed them in just a bit of salted water and used the resulting liquid as my bouillon. I did not use basil because I had none. And I finished the sauce with a healthy splash of rye whiskey. This dish was served as part of the menu below.

I believe Cousin Violet would have approved.

Upton Alley Season One

Episode 1

Tea 
Sandwiches of 
Cucumber and Cream Cheese,
Parma Cotto Ham and Black Bread,
and Ngapi Kyaw and Butter
 

Episode 2

Champagne
Perpignan Lobsters
Steamed Clams and Drawn Butter
 

Episode 3

Champagne
Hopping John
Sautéed Kale
Red Devil
 

Episode 4

Peanut butter-Banana Bread with Cerises a la Grecque
 

***

 

Written by etinnyo

January 2, 2013 at 1:01 pm

Smell This

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Sometimes easy is just easy. And this is easy. You should smell this: Smashed sour cherry pits gathered from making 20 pies. Put them into 2 large glass jars. Fill one with Everclear; the other with Wild Turkey 101. Open the jars a couple weeks later and take a whiff.

If bitter almonds and cherries were angels they would smell like this. Um, drunken, boozy angels that is.

Written by etinnyo

August 16, 2012 at 11:31 am

Posted in Art, Drink, New York, Pie, recipe

Stolen Dinner

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I stole my dinner from the future: a few outer leaves from a head of napa bound for kimchi; a few slices from a raw duck breast meant to become a prosciutto.

This is my confession:

I pre-sliced the raw breast but kept meat together as though to conceal the deed. Then I placed the duck-slice package skin-side down on a skillet over medium heat and sprinkled salt on top. When the fat rendered and the skin crisped, I pulled the meat apart, quickly seared it, then removed it from pan. In the remaining fat, I browned a few slices of garlic. Then I stir-fried the cabbage with some black pepper. It wept and made a sauce from the pan juices. I like to add a touch of cornstarch and water to thicken the liquid. I make no apologies for this. When the sauce was thicker and once again translucent, I added the duck pieces and shook to coat everything.

I did all this and I freely admit it. I apologize only a little bit to my future self.

No, I did not eat dinner from the pan while standing at the stove. I am a thief not a barbarian.

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Written by etinnyo

January 28, 2012 at 6:00 am

Posted in Food, Menu, New York, recipe

Tagged with ,

Tentacles

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Usually after a day of lounging on a lawn by the Hudson River watching beach volley ball, I show more restraint at the Fairway Market. But Sunday I was swept up in the momentary protein lust and found myself riding home to Harlem with a bagful of not just the usual array of fresh vegetables but also three little beef steaks, a pack of hotdogs, and (good Lord) a 3.13 lb octopus.

What does one person do with that much cephalopod?

First I brought a seasoned pot of water to boil. Then I dipped the octopus in the water for a minute and removed it until the water came to a boil again. Once again, twice again, thrice again, in total dipping four times to temper the creature and curl its tentacles, then dropping the whole thing in. Topped with a lid, it boiled for 45 minutes.

Octo-broth is amazing stuff: so fragrant. It deliciously filled my 90˚F apartment with the smell of the sea (if the sea were also made of garlic, shallots and bay leaves) at 11:30 at night. I decided when it was done to place the whole thing in the fridge until the next day. Broth and all. The next night I warmed it up and had my way with it.

What to do with so many tentacles? Jar them with fresh thyme, pomegranate vinegar and Wolfgang’s olive oil…and a pinch of red chili flake. Four tentacles and some head in this jar, two tentacles and the rest of the head in another, then wrap two remaining tentacles in a ziplock bag a give them to a dear friend. 2+4+2=8.

Written by etinnyo

June 21, 2011 at 5:51 pm

Ready for the Oven

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Easter Rabbit and Duck Pate

Cut the meat off two rabbits and two duck legs. Reserve a few larger rabbit strips but dice up the rest of the meat and freeze briefly along with some diced duck skin. Grind garlic, shallots and other flavoring agents in a food processor with the rabbit and duck livers if there are any. Set aside. Wash the blade and put it in the freezer too. Chop the partially frozen meats and fat in batches and place in a big bowl. Mix in the shallot mixture, some whiskey or gin, and a couple eggs and cream if you want. Fill the terrines in layers adding strips of the reserved meat and pistachios and pitted green olives. Do something decorative on top. Cover with your terrine lid and cook in a bain marie at 250F for about 90 minutes. Take the lids off, place weights on the pates to press them a bit while cooling to room temp. Then replace the cover, wrap tightly and place in the fridge. Make this at least 24 hours before serving so flavor may develop. Delicious for about a week.

I adapted rabbit pate recipes which usually call for a certain amount of pork and pork fat (because rabbit meat is very lean) by substituting duck meat and fatty skin. Duck fat is more fluid at room temperature than pork fat but the texture is still delicious.

Written by etinnyo

April 23, 2011 at 11:03 am

Posted in Food, Holidays, Menu, New York, recipe